Chisel Grip Vs Half Crimp. What we found was a better correlation between finger strength

What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. Though many new climbers frequently distinguish between crimps and slopers, they are actually very similar holds. For most climbe Specificity 2. In regards to safety while climbing, I think the main advice would be to not overuse the closed crimp, where you're wrapping your thumb over your other fingers. Unusual Half Crimp I use a weird grip when trying to half crimp. This is a variant on the regular half-crimp (figure B), where the index finger bends at 90 degrees. When using larger holds, drag your pads over the holds and rely more on friction. Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. When using a file or a rasp, grasp the handle in one hand and the toe of the file in the other.

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